Your independent guide to Malta
Valletta

Live — Everyday life in Malta

Staying in Malta for a few weeks is a different problem from visiting for a few days. Nobody writes about it much, because it isn't photogenic: getting a SIM that works, understanding the Tallinja bus card, opening a bank account (harder than it should be), finding a flat that isn't next to a construction site, and working out why your July electricity bill is what it is.

This section is the unglamorous half of the site, and in practice it's the half that decides whether your stay is pleasant or a slow grind. Where to base yourself and what each town is actually like once the day-trippers leave. What rent really costs by season — the summer premium is not a rumour. How the healthcare system works if you need a doctor, and what your insurance almost certainly doesn't cover. Heat in August, damp in January, and the fact that Maltese buildings are designed for one of them and not the other.

We live here, so this is written from experience rather than research: the mistakes described are mostly ours. We take no money from letting agents, relocation services or schools, which is why we're comfortable saying that some of Malta's most-recommended neighbourhoods are places we'd never live.

The island rewards you quickly once the admin is done. This section is about getting the admin done.

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